Step 1: Purchase some soft foam floor panels. I usually find them at Home Depot, etc. They're made for kid's rooms, they're inexpensive, and one 2'x2' panel will tie hundreds of poppers!
Step 2: Cut the foam into strips (using a razor blade) that are about 3/4" wide (this will actually be the length of the popper body). From the strip, cut bodies that are about 1/2" wide at the front, tapering to about 3/8" wide at the rear. You can see from the photo, the foam I buy has a cool texture on one side... I make this the bottom, because the texture traps air bubble's under the popper.
Step 3: Using a razor blade, trim the top of the body to a downward taper as shown.
Step 4: Using a good size bodkin, poke a hole near the bottom of the body, from front center to rear center.
Step 5: Slide the body onto a size 3/0 #2720 Daiichi Stinger hook. (do not use glue yet). Secure 3/0 Uni-Thread to the hook just behind the popper body and wind back up the hook to just behind the body.
Step 6: Secure a marabou feather on top of the hook. Color of your choice.
Step 7: Secure one barred rubber leg (folded over) to each side of the hook. Color of your choice.
Step 8: Secure a hackle feather (black schlappen shown) by the tip, then dub some Ice Dub or Senyo's Laser Dub onto the thread and wind forward leaving the right amount of room for the popper body. The color of the dubbing is not critical, although I prefer olive or black.
Step 9: Wind the hackle forward over the dubbing and secure, then wind the thread forward to the hook eye, (cover the hook completely, as this thread will be a good base for the glue used to attach the body securely to the hook). Whip finish.
Step 10: Apply a generous amount of Zap a Gap CA glue to the thread and slide the body in place. Attach doll eyes and rubber legs as shown. As you can see, I also add spots using a green or black sharpie and a red lip (with a red sharpie). Not necessary, but it looks cool:)
Many times, I will also lightly stroke a sharpie on the textured underside of the popper body, hitting just the high spots... this helps break up the solid color from the fish's point of view.
Captain Matt Zudweg guides for Feenstra Guide Service on Michigan's Muskegon River and also owns BoneYard Fly Gear. Check out his product line at http://www.boneyardflygear.com/